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Tile and Backsplash Installation Services

Tile and backsplash installation is mostly preparation. What decides whether a floor still looks right in five years happens before a single tile is set - the substrate is flattened, the wet areas are waterproofed, and the layout is set out so the cuts land where nobody looks.

Tiling & Backsplash Installation project by Art Style Construction

Tile and Backsplash Installation

What Is Under the Tile Decides How It Ages

Tile fails from underneath. A floor that flexes, a wall that was never flat, or a shower pan that drains to the wrong place will crack grout and lift tile no matter how carefully the tile itself was set, so the substrate is where the work starts. Floor framing is checked for stiffness before anything is ordered - ceramic and porcelain want a floor that deflects no more than its span over 360, natural stone about twice that, and a bouncy joist bay is fixed with blocking or sistering rather than absorbed by the mortar. Flatness is measured with a straightedge, not judged by eye: a large-format tile with any edge over fifteen inches needs the surface flat to roughly an eighth of an inch over ten feet, because lippage that would disappear under a small mosaic stands up as a ridge under a two-foot plank. Low spots get self-levelling compound or patch and high spots get ground down, since mortar is an adhesive and not a levelling material - building thickness into it is what leaves hollow-sounding tiles a year later. Over plywood, an uncoupling membrane absorbs the seasonal movement of the subfloor so it does not travel up into the grout. In a shower, cement board is a backer and not a waterproofing layer: the walls, the curb, the pan and every inside corner and change of plane get a bonded membrane with the corners banded, and the pan is pre-sloped to the drain before tiling rather than shimmed flat and hoped over. Movement joints go where the standards put them - soft joints at the perimeter, at inside corners and through large fields - filled with silicone rather than grout, because grout has no give and the first thing it does under movement is crack.

  • Bathroom and shower tiling over a bonded, banded waterproofing membrane
  • Pre-sloped shower pans, linear and centre drains, curbs and curbless entries
  • Large-format floor tile on a substrate levelled and checked for deflection first
  • Kitchen backsplashes tiled after the counters are templated and set
  • Mosaic, herringbone and stacked-bond layouts set out to land symmetrically
  • Natural stone - marble, travertine, slate - set in white mortar and sealed
  • Heated floor cable or mat under an uncoupling membrane, tested before and after
  • Tiled niches with shelves, benches, metal edge profiles and mitred outside corners
  • Regrouting, re-caulking and repair of cracked, hollow or failed tile

Why choose us

Layout and Backsplashes Are Set Out Before Anything Is Cut

A tile job is decided at layout, before the first cut. Tiles are dry-laid to see where the courses land, and the setting-out is adjusted so the cuts at both ends of a wall or a floor come out the same size and nobody is left with a sliver against the most visible edge. Full tiles go where the eye lands - the shower wall facing the door, the run behind a range - and the cuts go into corners, under a vanity, or behind a toilet. Long plank tiles are laid to a third offset rather than a half, because a plank that is slightly bowed along its length shows the most lippage at its midpoint, which is exactly where a half offset puts the next joint. In a kitchen the backsplash waits for the counters: the tile sits on the finished counter and dies into the underside of the upper cabinets, so it cannot be set out until both of those lines physically exist. Outlet and switch boxes get extenders so each device comes forward flush with the finished tile face instead of sitting recessed behind it, and the cover plates are checked against the tile layout before any holes are cut. Exposed edges are finished deliberately - a metal profile, a mitred return, or a bullnose - never a raw factory edge with a bead of caulk run over it. Joint width follows the tile: rectified porcelain takes a tight unsanded joint, a rustic or hand-made tile needs a wider sanded one. Where tile meets a counter, a tub or an inside corner the joint is caulked in a matching colour rather than grouted, because those are the joints that move. Natural stone is set in white mortar so it does not darken through, and sealed after grouting.

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Art Style Construction craftsmanship

Why choose us

Why Homeowners Choose Art Style Construction

Quality Guarantee

Every renovation is completed with quality materials and trusted construction methods for lasting performance.

Transparent Pricing

Honest estimates with no hidden costs and flexible solutions tailored to your renovation budget.

Experienced Team

Skilled tradespeople and project managers who treat your home with care from planning to completion.

On-Time Completion

Clear timelines and dependable communication so your project finishes on schedule.

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