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Paint, reface or replace kitchen cabinets: what the boxes tell you

How to decide whether to paint, reface or replace kitchen cabinets: what to check inside each box, what every finding means, and what moves when boxes come out.

Kitchen Renovations · October 15, 2026 · 8 min read

Whether to paint, reface or replace kitchen cabinets is usually asked as a question about money. It is really a question about the boxes. Doors and drawer fronts are what you look at every day, but the boxes behind them carry the counter, hold the sink and take the water when something leaks. If the boxes are sound and the layout works, you have three options. If they are not, you have one.

So before asking anyone for a price, open every door, pull every drawer out, empty the sink base and look. This guide walks through what to check, what each thing you find means for each route, and what else in the room is affected when boxes come out.

What is the difference between painting, refacing and replacing?

Painting keeps everything and changes the colour. Refacing keeps the boxes and replaces what you see: new doors, new drawer fronts, a new skin on the exposed sides and face frames, usually new hinges and pulls. Replacing takes the boxes out and builds the kitchen again, which is the only route that can change where things are.

Paint

Stays: boxes, doors, drawers, layout, counter.

Changes: the colour and the hardware.

Cannot fix: a door style you dislike, warped or delaminating doors, anything inside the boxes.

Reface

Stays: boxes, layout, counter, usually the drawer boxes.

Changes: doors, drawer fronts, exposed sides, hinges, pulls.

Cannot fix: a soft sink base, sagging bottoms, a work path that does not suit how you cook.

Replace

Stays: the walls and, sometimes, the floor.

Changes: everything you store things in, and where it goes.

Brings with it: a new counter in most cases, and work on the backsplash, floor and services behind the cabinets.

Painting and refacing both depend on the same thing: boxes that are dry, square and still holding their screws. That is what the inspection below is for.

Two white upper cabinet boxes with adjustable shelves and no doors, hung either side of a veined white slab backsplash below an open hood duct
Upper boxes on one of our kitchens, hung before the doors went on. The box, its sides, bottom and shelves, is what decides whether painting or refacing is possible.

What should you check inside the boxes?

Work through the kitchen in this order. Start where water collects, finish with the uppers. You need a flashlight, a screwdriver and twenty minutes with everything emptied out.

  1. The sink base

    Empty it completely and shine the light on the floor of the cabinet, the back corners and the bottom edges of the sides. Press the floor of the box with your thumb around the drain and the supply lines. Particleboard and MDF that have been wet swell and turn soft and crumbly at the edges; plywood tends to stain and lift in layers. A dark ring, a bulge or a spot that gives under your thumb means water got in. Check whether the leak is still active before deciding anything else: a slow drip under a sink will damage new cabinets just as quickly.

  2. Bottoms and shelves

    Look along every cabinet floor and fixed shelf from the side, at eye level. A bottom that dips in the middle, a shelf that has bowed under plates, or a joint where the bottom has pulled away from the side all tell you the box has stopped holding its shape. If you are not sure what the boxes are made of, the cut edges in the hinge holes will show you; our guide to plywood, MDF and particleboard cabinets explains what each material looks like and how it ages.

  3. Drawers

    Pull each drawer all the way out and lift it off its runners if it will come. A drawer box with a loose or cracked bottom can be rebuilt on its own. Runners that drop, stick or have torn their screws out of the cabinet side are a sign the side panel is losing its grip on fasteners, and that matters more than the drawer.

  4. Hinges and face frames

    Open every door and watch it. Doors that sag or will not stay adjusted usually mean the hinge screws have stripped the wood they sit in. If your cabinets have a face frame (a solid frame across the front of the box), check that it is tight to the box and not split. If they are frameless, with the doors covering the edges of the box, look at the front edges for chips and swelling, because new doors will sit right on them.

  5. The uppers

    Hold the bottom of each upper cabinet and try to move it. It should not rock or shift. Upper boxes hang on screws into the wall, and a box that moves has either lost its screws or was never fixed properly. Look at the joint where the top of the cabinet meets the ceiling or bulkhead for cracks that have opened over the years.

Which route does each finding point to?

Most kitchens have a mix of findings: a tired sink base and seven good boxes is common. Read the table row by row, and let the worst finding that cannot be repaired decide.

What you foundPaintRefaceReplace
Boxes dry, square and firm, you dislike only the colourFitsMore than you needMore than you need
Boxes sound, door style or door surface is the problemDoes not change the style; peeling thermofoil cannot simply be painted overFitsOnly if the layout also needs to change
Old water mark in the sink base, dry and firmFits once the source is fixedFits once the source is fixedNot needed for this alone
Sink base swollen or soft, other boxes soundOnly with that one box rebuilt or replacedOnly with that one box rebuilt or replacedWorth pricing next to a one-box repair
Several bottoms sagging or swollenNoNoFits
Hinge screws stripped in many doorsOnly if the holes can be repaired firstOnly if new hinges can bite into sound materialFits if the sides are crumbling
Uppers loose on the wallAfter they are refastened into studsAfter they are refastened into studsNot needed for this alone
Layout does not suit how you cook or storeNoNoFits

A single damaged box does not condemn a whole kitchen. A sink base can be rebuilt or replaced on its own, then painted or refaced with the rest, as long as the matching work is planned together and not discovered halfway through.

When is the layout the real problem?

Sometimes the boxes are fine and the kitchen still does not work. New paint or new doors will not fix that, and it is better to find out now than after the money is spent. Stand in the kitchen and go through these questions honestly.

  • Can you walk from the fridge to the sink to the cooktop without going around an island, a table or an open door?
  • Is there a clear stretch of counter beside the cooktop and beside the sink to set things down?
  • Are pots kept in deep base cabinets behind doors, where you kneel to reach the back? Drawers would hold them better, and adding drawers to existing boxes is often impractical.
  • Does the fridge you want, or the dishwasher you have, fit the opening the current cabinets leave?
  • Is the corner cabinet a space you never use?

If two or more of these are a yes, the layout is part of the answer, and that points to replacing. Our guide to choosing a kitchen layout around how you cook goes further. Installing new cabinetry does not need a building permit in Toronto; moving plumbing or taking out a wall does, so a layout change that relocates the sink is a bigger job than one that only reshuffles boxes.

What else moves when the boxes come out?

Replacing cabinets is rarely only a cabinet job. The rest of the kitchen was fitted around the old boxes, and some of it comes out with them. These are the parts to ask about before you compare replacing with the other two routes.

The counter
It sits on the base cabinets and was cut to their run. Stone and quartz tops are rarely reused on new boxes of a different size, so plan on a new counter with new bases.
The backsplash
Tile is set down to the counter and up to the underside of the uppers. Change either, and the backsplash usually changes too; see our tile and backsplash installation page for what that involves.
The floor
In many older kitchens the flooring was laid around the cabinets, not under them. When new cabinets do not cover exactly the same footprint, bare subfloor shows at the edges, which can mean new flooring in the kitchen or beyond.
Plumbing, gas and outlets
The sink drain, supply lines, dishwasher connection and counter outlets were placed for the old cabinet positions. If the new boxes put the sink or range somewhere else, these move as well, and the permit question above applies.
The wall behind
Removing old uppers often reveals unpainted wall, old wallpaper or damage from previous fixing screws, which is patched and painted before anything new goes up.

Painting and refacing leave all of this alone. That is often the biggest difference between the routes, and it is the part a quick quote for "new cabinets" can leave out.

What should you ask for when you get prices?

Quotes for three different routes are hard to compare unless each one describes the same kitchen. Put these in your request so the answers line up.

  1. Say which route you want priced, or ask for two routes side by side, with your inspection notes from above attached.
  2. Name any box you think needs repair or replacement, and ask that it be priced as a separate line.
  3. For refacing, ask what the exposed sides and face frames will be covered with, and whether the hinges, pulls and drawer runners are new.
  4. For replacing, ask whether the price includes removal, the counter, the backsplash, any flooring, and moving plumbing or outlets, or whether those are separate.
  5. Ask how long the kitchen will be out of use for that route, and whether the sink can stay connected for part of it.

The fourth question matters most. Two quotes that look far apart often turn out to describe different amounts of work once the counter and backsplash are counted.

Where we fit in

Art Style Construction builds full kitchens across Toronto and the GTA, including new cabinets, counters, backsplash and lighting, as part of our kitchen renovations, and builds custom cabinetry and built-ins scribed to the room. You can see finished kitchens in our project gallery. If your inspection points to new boxes, or you would like a second pair of eyes on what you found, book an on-site consultation and we will open the doors with you.

Questions homeowners ask about this

Is refacing always cheaper than replacing kitchen cabinets?

Not always. Refacing is careful labour on every box, and it needs boxes worth keeping. Replacing usually brings a new counter, backsplash work and sometimes flooring and plumbing with it. Ask for both routes priced against the same written scope before deciding which costs less for your kitchen.

Can water-damaged cabinets be painted or refaced?

Not where the material is soft or swollen. Paint and new doors sit on the box, so a sink base that has crumbled at the edges has to be rebuilt or replaced first. An old water mark on a box that is dry and firm is usually fine once the leak itself is fixed.

How do I know if my cabinet boxes are good enough to keep?

Empty them and check the sink base floor for softness, look along every bottom and shelf for sagging, pull the drawers and test the runners, open each door to see if it sags, and push on each upper to see if it moves. Dry, square boxes that hold their screws are worth keeping.

Do I need a permit to replace kitchen cabinets in Toronto?

Toronto does not require a building permit to install new cabinetry. Moving plumbing or removing a wall does, so a new layout that relocates the sink or opens the kitchen to another room needs one. Swapping cabinets in the same positions does not.

Thinking about this project?

We will walk the space with you, tell you what it actually takes, and put it in writing.

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